WELCOME TO ROME
SOME ADVICE TO VISIT ROME
Dear Guests, when we all visit other cities, in some way we become “tourists”, a term that has acquired a negative meaning in recent decades. A restaurant classified as “touristic” is generally a low-level restaurant. The term qualifies a restaurant frequented exclusively by foreigners, who often do not know how to distinguish a dish, as a Roman expects it to be cooked. The situation of the Tourism in Rome has worsened in recent years following the pandemic, creating a situation of “over tourism”, which could sometimes make your visiting experience unpleasant. Unfortunately, more and more tourists come to Rome from all over the world, reducing their stay to a few nights and believing that during their stay it is OBLIGATORY to visit the following few monuments: VATICAN - St. Peter's Basilica + Vatican Museum including Sistine Chapel, COLOSSEUM, Trevi-Fountain and Spanish Stairs.
THE VATICAN
Especially the visit of the Vatican can become a “Via Crucis”. It happens that if you go during peak hours from 10:00 AM 4:00 PM, to enter the basilica you have to queue for 1 -> 2 hours under the rain or under the scorching sun. Same situation to enter in the Vatican Museum. I can give you the following advice: VATICAN MUSEUM - IMPORTANT TO KNOW: at the end of the route through the Galleries you enter the Sistine Chapel. From this, there are two exits: the smaller door at the bottom on the left takes you back to the entrance to the Museums. The larger door at the bottom on the right leads directly into the basilica. In this way you avoid the queue in St. Peter's Square, cause you have already through passed security checks! A big problem is to find tickets. This year things have improved a little: you can try to buy tickets for Vatican Museum and Colosseum online. Since the tickets now are nominative and cannot be transferred to others, you can hope to find something, possibly at more unfavorable times. Alternatively, you can buy tickets at a higher price from agencies, who still are allowed to get tickets (till 500/day), changing names till 3 days before the visit. Here the official web-sites: https://www.museivaticani.va/content/museivaticani/it.htmlhttps://www.coopculture.it/en/products/ticket-colosseum-roman-forum-palatine_24h/
But I think it depends primarily on us degrading ourselves to the role of “tourists”, or feeling like “guests” of a place. If we line up in front of an ice cream shop, or a panini seller together with 100 other tourists, just because social media or a site dedicated to tourism recommends it, we become tourists in the negative connotation of the term. Rome in particular offers so many alternatives to get off the beaten path of mass tourism, that if you find yourself in a queue, it's your fault too! Below I list some options among the many possible ones, easily accessible and above all enjoyable for you.
CASE ROMANE AL CELIO
– Clivio di Scauro The Caelian Hill, one of the seven hills, is an oasis of tranquility in the archaeological heart of Rome. In the year 2004 a Roman house, with original frescoes from the 2nd - 3rd century, above which was subsequently built the Basilica of SS. Giovanni e Paolo, was made accessible and turned into a museum. The early Christian church was lavishly enriched in the Baroque era and is in great demand for weddings. You can continue on Clivio di Scauro, walking along a roman aqueduct, but you can also pass trough the Villa Celimontana, a public park (ideal for a pic-nic), and exit on Via della Navicella. Across the road and follow the aqueduct and enter in the:
BASILICA DI S. STEFANO ROTONDO
– Via di S. Stefano Rotondo 7 (Open 10:00-13:00 / 14:00-17:00 monday closed – free entry) This is an incredible circular ancient building, probably a market, transformed in a church during the 5th century.
There are other incredible places to discover nearby. I recommend the
BASILICA DEI SS. QUATTRO CORONATI
(6:30-12:00 / 15:15-19:30 – free entry) an enclave of the Middle Ages in the midst of neighborhoods intensely built in the 19th century. Once through the first door beneath a defensive tower, you enter a first somewhat modest courtyard. The second portal was the entrance to a large 4th century church; the remains can be seen incorporated into the side walls of the courtyard. It was destroyed in 1084. The church was rebuilt much smaller and is accessed from the subsequent third portal. You enter a dark, somewhat eerie environment, where the Augustinian nuns often sing and pray. From the right nave it is possible to access the 12th century cloister, used for film shoots set in medieval times. You are now close to two of Rome's patriarchal basilicas:
S. GIOVANNI IN LATERANO
(7:00 – 19:00 – free entry) If you come from S. Stefano Rotondo, first take a look inside the BAPTISTERY (free entry) built in the Constantinian era (4th century). The Basilica (the entrance is from the main facade) is not a secret place, on the contrary, being the cathedral of Rome, seat of the Bishop of Rome, who is the Pope, it is a colossal and monumental building. But it's much more accessible than St. Peter's Basilica, where the Pope has resided since the 15th century, so come in and be amazed. The next attraction you can visit is the
BASILICA DI S. MARIA MAGGIORE
(7:00 – 19:00 – free entry) I also point out the third of the papal basilicas in Rome. It still retains a series of incredible late antique mosaics from the 5th century. After visiting this monumental building, you must absolutely make a few steps and look for the nearby:
BASILICA S. PRASSEDE
- Via di S. Prassede 9/a (10:00-12:00 / 16:00-18:30 – free entry) You’ll be really surprised to enter from a secondary door in a splendid medieval basilica with 9th century mosaics. Don't miss a real treasure: the chapel of St. Zeno in the side nave, with gold mosaics, representing the garden of paradise directly, above your head.
IF UNTIL NOW I HAVE RECOMMENDED TOO MANY CHURCHES LET ME CHANGE TOPIC (BUT REMEMBER, ROME ONCE WAS CALLED THE HOLY CITY AND IS THE WORLD CENTRE OF THE CATHOLIC CHURCH)
CIMITERO ACATTOLICO
– Via Caio Cestio, 6 (MON-SAT 9:00-16:30 /SUN 9:00-12:30 - a donation is expected) Immediately behind the Cestius Pyramid there is a cemetery reserved for the unbaptized, who, until the popes reigned, were forbidden to be buried in a normal cemetery. Illustrious foreign figures are buried here, among which Keats and Shell, as well as famous atheists, such as the Marxist Antonio Gramsci. The Germans will be surprised to find the grave of Goethe’s son. The place is worth a visit because here too, despite being in the middle of the city, we are transferred to a space and time imbued with romance. Walk to the large Piazzale Ostiense and take the Metro in direction Laurentina. Only two stops and you are at:
BASILICA DI S. PAOLO
(7:00 –19:00 free entry) I know, it’s a church again, but what a church! Rebuilt after a fire in 1823, which however spared the enormous apse mosaic, the 5-nave basilica is impressive for its size and is never overcrowded. After having visit this one, you can tell you have seen all the four papal basilicas!
For a small entrance fee you can also visit the wonderful cosmatesque cloister (12th century) Return to the metro station and instead of taking the subway, take the train to Ostia Lido (ask for the right track. You have to buy a new ticket (BIT € 1,50 valid 100 min.) and you can reach the station and archeological site:
OSTIA ANTICA
(9:30 – 1 hour before sunset - MON. closed / Ticket € 18,00) Also known as the Pompei outside the gates of Rome, this enormous archaeological area will never be overcrowded and lends itself not only to the discovery of Roman houses, shops, sometimes still with the original mosaics, but also to a relaxing walk among the ruins of the ancient port city of Rome. If the smell of the nearby sea makes you want to see the Mediterranean Sea, take the train again which will soon take you to the Ostia Lido district. If you get off at the stop
CASTELFUSANO – LA VECCHIA PINETA
Walking straight for 300 meters you are on the seashore. Here I point out our family's favorite restaurant La Vecchia Pineta. For a meal especially during the week end it’s mandatory to make a reservation. Tel. The construction is in the style of 1930s rationalism, tastefully restored a few years ago. You can have an aperitif, lunch or dinner outdoors on the terrace (assuming the weather is beautiful). Prices are not exaggerated for an unsurpassable location.
PALAZZO MASSIMO – MUSEO NAZIONALE ROMANO
(9:30-19:00 – MON. closed - Ticket € 10,00) for lovers of ancient statues, mosaics, frescoes in a modern setup inside the rooms of a prestigious 19th century Roman palace. Extraordinary works, such as the boxer and the discobolus, can be enjoyed in large spaces that are never overcrowded.
S. AGNESE FUORI LE MURA – MAUSOLEO DI COSTANZA
– Via Nomentana 349 (8:00-12:00 / 15:00-18:00 – free entry) You can easily reach this Site located in a more peripheral location, outside the ancient roman walls, from Termini Station by Metro B1 (Stop S. Agnese Annibaliano). Once again, you’ll be surprised of this oasis of peace in the middle of the chaos of the city. A large stair conduces you down to the level of an old basilica with mosaics of the 7th century. In the courtyard in front of the main entrance you will find the ticket office for visiting the catacombs. These catacombs are almost unknown and rarely visited, but once you have visited an underground corridor of any catacomb, those of all the other catacombs are similar. But the highlight of this complex is the MAUSOLEUM OF CONSTANZA. You enter the magical atmosphere of a circular building, consisting of a central volume, covered with a dome, surrounded by a vaulted ring completely covered with mosaics from the Constantinian era of the 4th century. These mosaics are placed in the transition period from ancient art to the early Christian era. The theme of the grape harvest and the vines, we can find on cinerary urns mixed with Dionysian and therefore certainly pagan scenes, are here reused in an early Christian mausoleum, with reference to the famous parable “I am the vine, you are the branches”. It may happen that when you arrive a wedding is in progress. In this case, avoid disturbing. Go to the BAR inside the complex and have a cappuccino. Then return to enjoy the exit of the bride and guests.
MAXXI
– Via Guido Reni 4a (11:00 – 19:00 – MON. closed – Ticket € 18:00) Rome hasn’t much modern architecture to offer, but the museum of 21st century arts is one of the most important works created by the architect Zaha Hadid (project and execution 1998->2010). You can visit a collection of contemporary art and temporary exhibitions are on display. There is also a large cafeteria, where you can have a light lunch in a cultured, museum environment.
CARAVAGGIO TOUR (close to your location)
You can see six masterpieces of the most revolutionary baroque painter, exhibited in three churches, near your apartment, without having to pay any entrance fee, MADONNA OF THE PILGRIMS - Basilica di S. Agostino, Piazza di S. Agostino (7:30-12:00 / 16:00-19:30) – first Chapel in the left nave. STORIES OF St. MATTHEW (Chiesa di S. Luigi dei Francesi 9:30-12:45 / 14:30-18:30). in the last chapel on the left you will find three large canvases with the story of St. Matthew the evangelist: from conversion to martyrdom. CONVERSION of St. PAUL and MARTYRDOM of St. PETER – S. Maria del Popolo, Piazza del Popolo (7:00-12:00 / 16:00-19:00) Go to the last chapel in the left side. In the 1st Chapel in the left nave you can also find a nativity (1480) of the famous renaissance painter Pinturicchio, and the 2nd chapel in the right nave was designed and partially decorated by Raphael. There are hundreds of interesting and secret places I could list here for you, but I think it becomes too much. So let me give you a last advice.
GALLERIA COLONNA
- Via della Pilotta 17 Friday 09:00-13:15 only guided tours (www.galleriacolonna.it) Saturday 09:00-13:15 Ticket € 15:00 The gallery is still privately owned by the Colonna family. You are dazzled and amazed by the grandeur of the frescoed rooms and the wealth of works of art collected by the family in the Baroque era. The icing on the cake is the visit to the garden, which rises towards the Quirinal hill, from which you can enjoy an unparalleled panoramic view of Rome. In my opinion, a visit to this Gallery can largely replace the stressful visit to the Vatican Galleries, which are always overcrowded and unfortunately not enjoyable at all.
PANORAMIC VIEW FROM THE TERRACES OF THE VITTORIANO
- Piazza Venezia) Entrance from the right side of the colossal white monument in Via del Teatro di Marcello 9:30 – 19:30 (Ticket € 15:00 includes visit of Museo del Risorgimento and Palazzo Venezia) The terraces above the Altar of the Fatherland (Vittoriano) can be reached with a modern lift. Consider that we are on the Capitol Hill and therefore in the center of ancient Rome. The breathtaking view extends over the archaeological area of the forums, up to the Colosseum and northwards over the domes of the churches in the historic center of Rome.
PRIVATE TOUR
Dear Guest, I hope you will enjoy your stay in Rome not as a tourist, but as a guest. I’m the owner of the apartment; the hosts are Laura, my wife and Dada, my daughter. I’m an Architect and a licensed tourist guide and I could make myself available, compatibly with my schedule to be your guide in the city of Rome. For family groups I ask € 160,00 for a 2-hour walking tour. In the price is included some help, if it is necessary to book a visit in advance, but as described above, it’s impossible to help you to visit the Vatican Museum and very difficult to find last minute tickets for the Colosseum. I can offer you some thematic visits such as: The legend of Constantine: how pagan Rome became the spreading center of Christianity The war between faith and reason: Rome between inquisition and free thought. A journey from the first seat of La Sapienza University (Church of S. Ivo) to the Jesuit Church S. Ignazio. Cancel Culture in the ancient Rome: from the Roman emperors to Mussolini, the contemporary has passed over the past like a steamroller. A walking Tour from the Colosseum to The Roman Houses on the Celio Hill Raffaello / Caravaggio Tour: from S. Maria della Pace, to S. Maria del Popolo And of course, many other themes or places to visit as Castel S. Angelo, Galleria Borghese and of course St. Peter's Basilica, but off-peak hours. You can contact me directly. My phone numbers are: IT (also Whatsapp) +39 3476809925 DE +49 15788160608 My email: raffatassi@icloud.com
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